Racconigi is a small town on the plain south of Turin, in Piedmont, surrounded by fields of maize and rice and lines of poplars. It is dominated by its castle, a grand residence of the House of Savoy, which ruled Piedmont and later Italy. Originally a medieval fortress, it was transformed over the centuries into a palace, with Baroque and neoclassical façades, and surrounded by a vast park with lakes, woods and a farm. The castle is part of the UNESCO-listed Residences of the Royal House of Savoy, inscribed in 1997.
The interiors of the castle are richly decorated, with apartments from the nineteenth century, when King Charles Albert made it his favourite summer residence. The last king of Italy, Umberto II, was born here in 1904. The park, laid out in the English style in the nineteenth century, is one of the largest in Piedmont, and it has greenhouses, a mock-Gothic farm and a lake. Visits to the interiors are generally guided.
Racconigi is also known for storks. A centre for the reintroduction of white storks and other wetland birds has been operating near the town for decades, and storks now nest on roofs and poles in the area. The nearby wetlands are home to many birds. Bra, a short ride south, is the birthplace of the Slow Food movement, and Pollenzo, nearby, has the University of Gastronomic Sciences in another Savoy residence.
The riding on the plain around Racconigi is flat and straight, through farmland and villages, with lots of traffic on the main roads. For better riding, head south into the Langhe and Roero, the hills famous for Barolo and Barbaresco wines, where the roads wind through vineyards and hilltop villages, with views of the Alps. The Langhe roads are among the best in Italy for motorcyclists, with endless curves and great food at the end. The Alps, with passes like the Colle della Maddalena, are within reach.
Racconigi has fuel and all services. Local food includes the cuisine of Piedmont: agnolotti, vitello tonnato, and the wines of the Langhe. Autumn, with the truffle season and the wine harvest, is the best time to visit.