The village of Pollenzo was a Roman town, Pollentia, long before it was a Savoy estate, and in 402 a Roman army under Stilicho fought Alaric's Visigoths nearby in one of the last great battles of the Western Empire. Today the name means food. The castle and the neo-Gothic agricultural complex built around it by King Carlo Alberto in the nineteenth century, the Agenzia, now house the University of Gastronomic Sciences, founded by the Slow Food movement, which was born in nearby Bra. The estate is part of the UNESCO-listed Residences of the Royal House of Savoy.
The setting is the plain of the Tanaro river, at the meeting point of the Langhe and Roero hills. Across the river, the Langhe climb into the vineyards of Barolo and Barbaresco; on this side, the Roero's sandy hills grow Arneis and Nebbiolo. Verduno, on the ridge just above, is known for Pelaverga, a pale, peppery red. The air in autumn carries the smell of crushed grapes and, if you are lucky, a whiff of truffles, as Alba, the white truffle capital, is a short ride away.
The roads here are among the best in Piedmont for a rider who likes a mix of curves and food. The climbs into the Langhe are a delight, with tight hairpins through vineyards, ridge roads with views of the Alps and small medieval villages at every turn. The surfaces are generally good but narrow, and in autumn tractors and grape trailers share the road, often leaving mud and juice on the bends. Weekends bring car tourists in large numbers, while weekday mornings can be nearly empty. Fog in the valleys is common in late autumn and winter, adding a moody touch.
Bra is the nearby town for fuel and services, and it is worth a stop: an elegant baroque centre and a local speciality, salsiccia di Bra, a fine veal sausage that is traditionally eaten raw. The university complex at Pollenzo also has a wine bank in its old cellars and a restaurant, though opening times vary. If you are here for lunch, take your time; the region's cooking, from tajarin pasta to vitello tonnato, rewards patience. After the meal, a gentle ride along the Tanaro and a slow climb into the hills will settle everything.