The Savoy dynasty liked a country house with a view, and Moncalieri Castle, perched on a hill above the Po, was one of their favourites. Built on older foundations, it was remodelled by the family over several centuries and served as a royal residence, hosting kings, queens and a number of historic decisions. In 1849, after the defeat at Novara, King Victor Emmanuel II issued from here the Proclamation of Moncalieri, addressed to the voters, which helped steady the kingdom in a dangerous moment. The castle is part of the group of Savoy residences around Turin that UNESCO listed in 1997, and part of it is still used by the Carabinieri.
Moncalieri is a town of almost fifty thousand people on the southern edge of Turin, with a medieval centre of narrow streets climbing a hill. The riding here divides into two kinds. On the plain, you are in the commuter belt, with heavy traffic and a lot of roundabouts. On the hill behind, the roads turn into twisting lanes among vineyards, villas and chestnut woods, with views over the city and the Alps beyond. The best time is a clear morning in spring or autumn, when the mountains sit on the horizon like a white wall, and the Piedmontese light is clean and soft.
Nichelino, next door, is another large town with nearly the same population, so fuel and food are everywhere, and Turin itself is a short ride away. The area has a rich food culture, with agnolotti, bagna cauda in winter, grissini breadsticks, and local red wines like Barbera and Freisa. Sunday lunch in a trattoria on the hill is a full affair, and you should not plan to ride far afterwards. Piedmontese cooking is generous, and the portions are not meant for tourists.
The Sacro Monte di Belmonte, listed among the sacred mountains of Piedmont and Lombardy, lies a good distance north, and the pilgrim route up to its chapels is a pleasant detour for riders heading toward the foothills. Back in Moncalieri, take a short walk around the castle grounds and look back at the city. From up here, Turin lies spread out below, a grid of avenues and rooftops, with the Mole Antonelliana poking up above the haze.