Cascade is a small settlement on the western edge of Colorado Springs, at the foot of Pikes Peak, and it is where the toll road begins. The village sits at the entrance to Ute Pass, an old Native American trail that climbs from the plains into the mountains, and the main road to the west still follows its route. At the gate, you pay the toll, check the weather, and begin a climb of nearly eight thousand feet in around nineteen miles.
Pikes Peak was known to the Ute people long before the first Europeans arrived, and it was named after Zebulon Pike, the army officer who saw it from a distance in 1806 and failed to climb it. The mountain was a landmark for the gold seekers heading west, who painted the slogan Pikes Peak or Bust on their wagons. In 1893 a teacher called Katharine Lee Bates stood on the summit and was so moved by the view that she wrote the poem that became America the Beautiful. The first carriage road to the top was built in the 1880s, and today a fully paved highway climbs the mountain, with a cog railway starting from Manitou Springs.
The ride is spectacular and demanding. From the gate, the road winds up through forest, with a steady stream of hairpins and switchbacks, passing alpine lakes and viewpoints before breaking out above the treeline. There are few guard rails in the upper sections, and drops are steep. Weather can change in an instant, with thunderstorms, hail and even snow in summer. Each June, drivers and riders race up the road in the Pikes Peak International Hill Climb, a famous test of nerve and speed.
Fuel is not available on the mountain, so fill the tank in Manitou Springs, about six kilometres from here, or Colorado Springs. The tollgate staff can tell you about conditions and any restrictions, and the road closes in bad weather. Dress in layers, carry water, and be prepared for much colder temperatures at the top. Start early, because afternoon storms are common, and, as altitude affects both rider and machine, be prepared for the engine to feel a little breathless.