Of all the Roman sites along Hadrian's Wall, Carrawburgh may be the most mysterious. The fort itself, called Brocolitia, is largely unexcavated, a grassy platform beside the Military Road, but just below it, in a boggy hollow, stands the reconstructed outline of a small temple of Mithras, the soldiers' god, whose cult was popular among the Roman army. The temple was excavated in 1949, and its three altars, now replaced by replicas, the originals being in the Great North Museum in Newcastle, were dedicated by commanders of the garrison. Nearby, a spring dedicated to the water goddess Coventina yielded an astonishing hoard of coins, altars and offerings when it was excavated in the nineteenth century, around thirteen thousand coins in all.
The setting adds to the atmosphere. The fort and temple lie on high ground, with moorland stretching in every direction, and the boggy ground around the temple is full of reeds and rushes. Mist often hangs in the hollow, and on a grey day, the place feels distinctly otherworldly. The Wall itself is largely buried under the road here, but its ditch and the vallum to the south are clearly visible in the landscape.
The B6318 runs right past the fort, and there is a car park, making Carrawburgh an easy stop on a ride along the Wall. The road here is classic Military Road riding: long crests, dips and fast curves across open moorland, with wide views and limited visibility over the summits. To the west, the road continues toward Housesteads and the crags, where the scenery becomes even more dramatic. Watch for sheep, walkers and cyclists, and be aware that the weather can change quickly, with wind and rain coming in from the west.
There are no services at Carrawburgh, so plan to refuel in Hexham, about eleven kilometres away, or in Haydon Bridge or Chollerford. Bring a flask of tea and a sandwich, and walk down to the temple from the car park. Stand among the altars, imagine the initiates gathered in the dim light for their rituals, and then walk to the site of Coventina's Well. It is a short stop, but one that stays with you, a glimpse into the religious life of the frontier.