Rio de Janeiro is a city that was clearly arranged by a geologist with a sense of humour. Granite domes rise straight out of the sea and the streets, and the Carioca mountains run through the middle of the city, so that the natural forest is a few minutes from the beaches. UNESCO's listing, called the Carioca Landscapes between the Mountain and the Sea, includes Tijuca National Park, the Botanical Garden, Sugarloaf, Copacabana and Corcovado, the peak where the statue of Christ the Redeemer opens his arms over the city. The statue is thirty metres tall, stands on an eight-metre base at about seven hundred metres above the sea, and was inaugurated in 1931.
Tijuca Forest has a surprising history. In the nineteenth century, the hills were cleared for coffee plantations, the streams dried up, and the city began to run short of water. The emperor ordered the land bought back and replanted, and a major named Archer and a small team of workers planted tens of thousands of saplings over thirteen years. The result is one of the largest urban forests in the world, home to marmosets, coatis, toucans and hundreds of butterfly species. The tall trees now standing on those slopes were planted by hand.
For a rider, the roads of Tijuca are among the best in the city, though they are not long. Narrow, twisting lanes climb through the trees, with hairpins, cobbled sections and old stone walls, passing viewpoints such as the Vista Chinesa and the Mesa do Imperador. Road conditions are variable, with tree roots, potholes and slippery leaves, and rain is frequent. Parts of the park roads are closed at times, so check the situation before you go. Traffic in the city below is fast and chaotic, with buses and motorbike couriers weaving between lanes, and security needs thought. Ask locals which areas to avoid, do not leave the bike unattended, and keep valuables out of sight.
Fuel is plentiful in the city, although stations in the tourist areas can be pricey. The best months are from May to September, when the humidity falls and the views are clearer. Summer brings heat, thunderstorms and crowds. Early morning is the best time for both the ride and the views, before the clouds gather on the peaks and hide the statue. Finish with fresh coconut water from a stand on the beach, which is the correct reward.