North of the beach suburbs, the Captain Cook Highway gets serious. It is the finest stretch of the coast road, and it is easy to see why.
The hill section is often called the Rex Range, and the lookout near the top gives a view down the coast over beaches and headlands to the horizon. Hang gliders sometimes launch from here, and the view in the early morning, with the light on the water and the mist rising from the forest, is a good reason to stop. The road is narrow in places, and its edges have crash barriers, but there are tight corners that look innocent from a distance. Slow trucks and tour buses can bunch up traffic, so patience helps, and passing is allowed only where it is clearly safe.
Wangetti Beach and other quiet coves lie below the road, and the stretch of forest is part of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area, one of the oldest rainforests on earth. The trees, ferns and vines are dense, and the air under the canopy is cool and smells of damp earth. Cassowaries, big flightless birds, live in the forest and sometimes appear near the road, so watch for warning signs and give them room, because they are large and can be dangerous. Crocodiles live in the estuaries, so avoid swimming in creek mouths.
There are very few services on this section. Cafes and farm stalls appear sporadically, selling fruit, ice cream and coffee, and a few roadside stops are good for a break. Fuel is not available along the hill, so fill up in Cairns or Palm Cove before heading north, and top up again in Port Douglas or Mossman. Mobile coverage is generally reliable but can drop in the cuttings.
Wet-season rain, from December to March, can cause landslides and flooding, and the road may close briefly. In the dry season, from May to October, the weather is warm, clear and pleasant, and this is the best time to ride. Carry water, wear sun protection and take it easy on the corners, as the surface can be slippery after rain.