Capitólio owes its fame to a lake that was built by accident, in a sense. In the 1960s the Furnas dam flooded the valley of the Rio Grande in south-west Minas Gerais, and the water rose up between the old canyons, leaving a huge reservoir with sheer rock walls, small islands and hidden coves. Today it is Brazil's inland playground, and the small town of Capitólio on its shore is the base for boat trips that run along the canyon, past waterfalls pouring straight from the cliffs into green water.
On the water, take the safety rules seriously. The cliffs are tall and rockfalls have caused accidents there, so boats must keep the distances set by the operators and authorities, and it is sensible to choose a licensed company and follow the crew's instructions. The water is calm and clear, and in the quiet parts, you can swim or paddle in sheltered coves. Early morning is best, before the crowds and the wind.
The ride is gentle and pleasant, a mix of rolling farmland, coffee plantations, pasture and low hills, with roads that wind between fields and small towns, with enough bends to keep things interesting. It forms part of a loop that also takes in the Serra da Canastra, a high plateau of grassland and waterfalls where the São Francisco river begins its long journey to the Atlantic. The weather is warm for most of the year, with heavy storms in the summer afternoons, so start early, and watch for animals and slow farm vehicles.
Minas Gerais has a deserved reputation for food, and cheese from the Canastra region is among the best, as are the cakes, sweet fruit pastes and strong coffee. Restaurants by the lake serve fresh river fish with farofa, and the town has plenty of pousadas. Capitólio is small and gets crowded on weekends and holidays, so book ahead and arrive early, and fill the tank at a larger town such as Piuí, about nineteen kilometres away, if there is any doubt about supplies. Bring sun protection and a swimsuit.