The Dacians liked their fortresses high, hidden and hard to reach, which is why the Roman legions of Trajan took two bloody wars at the start of the second century to conquer them. Căpâlna stands on a steep wooded hill above the Sebeș valley, a Dacian citadel with stone walls built in the distinctive murus dacicus technique, blocks of cut stone tied together with timber beams, and a tower that served as the last refuge. It is one of the six Dacian fortresses of the Orăștie Mountains listed by UNESCO in 1999, along with the capital Sarmizegetusa Regia, and it is one of the easier ones to reach, with a path climbing through the forest from the valley road.
The views from the top are lovely: the Sebeș river below, the wooded hills rolling away and the higher peaks of the Șureanu and Parâng ranges to the south. Walking among the walls, you get a feel for how the Dacian kingdom used its mountains, a network of strongholds controlling valleys, mines and roads.
For riders, the real treasure is the road. The Sebeș valley carries the northern end of the Transalpina, one of the highest and most spectacular roads in Romania, which climbs from Șugag past reservoirs and through the forest before rising above the treeline to cross the mountains at more than two thousand metres and drop south toward Novaci. The valley section near Căpâlna is twisty and scenic, with gorges and lakes, while the high part is exposed, often windy, and closed in winter, typically from late autumn until early summer. Check whether it is open before planning a crossing.
Șugag and Jina are small villages with basic shops, and Săsciori, about eight kilometres away, is a little larger. For a full tank and supermarkets, Sebeș, at the mouth of the valley, is the place. Jina, high on the plateau above the valley, is a village of shepherds known for its sheep's cheese and its strong pastoral traditions.
Late spring and early autumn are the best seasons, with clear air and the Transalpina usually open by summer. Midsummer weekends bring crowds to the high road. Climb up to the fortress in the early morning, when mist lies in the valley below, and you will understand why the Dacians trusted these hills to keep them safe.