The lighthouse at Formentor stands on the very end of the cape, some two hundred metres above the sea, in a spot that feels like the edge of everything. It was built in 1863, a squat white tower and keeper's house on bare rock, with only grass, thyme and a few twisted pines to soften the scene. On a clear day, you can see across the sea to Menorca on the horizon, and below your boots the cliffs fall in sheer walls to water so blue it looks artificial. The wind is almost always blowing, sometimes hard enough to rock a parked bike on its stand.
The road to the lighthouse is the last section of the Formentor ride, and it is a quiet, narrow strip of tarmac with a short tunnel and a couple of tight bends. On the way, a small bar with a terrace sells coffee and sandwiches, which makes a fine reward after a long ride. The road is a dead end, so everyone has to turn and come back, which means there is traffic in both directions, and in July and August the car park can be full by late morning. Come in the early evening, when the buses have gone and the light turns gold.
Nature around the lighthouse is hardy. Wild goats graze on the slopes, and you can often see them picking their way across rocks that would terrify a human. Birds of prey ride the updrafts, including Eleonora's falcons in the summer, and the sea below holds shoals of fish and, if you are lucky, a passing dolphin. The air smells of salt and rosemary. A path leads along the cliff for walkers, but take care near the edge, since there are few barriers.
Bring water in summer, since the sun on the exposed rock is hot, and a windproof layer in winter, when the wind can be bitter. Sunset is the best moment, though you will want to leave soon after to avoid riding the cliff road in the dark. The return is just as good as the way out, with the Bay of Pollença opening ahead of you.