Canta is a small Andean town in the mountains northeast of Lima, a place where the coastal desert gives way to high, cold valleys and the sky turns a deep, thin blue. The town sits at about 2,800 metres on the banks of a river that tumbles down from the cordillera, with terraced fields climbing the hillsides and a plaza where life revolves around the church and the market. It is only a few hours from the Peruvian capital, but the atmosphere is completely different, with a slower pace, cooler air and a strong sense of rural Andean life.
The ride out of Lima is a transition in itself. The road leaves the sprawl of the city, climbs through dry foothills dotted with cacti and then follows the river upstream, with the valley narrowing and the mountains growing steeper. The asphalt is generally good, but there are sections of rough surface and landslide damage, and the curves tighten as the gradient steepens. Traffic can be heavy near Lima and thins out rapidly. In the rainy season, from December to March, storms can cause rockfalls and mud on the road, so the dry months from May to October are the best time to go.
Canta has fuel, a few shops, simple restaurants and guesthouses, and is the last real stop before the high road. Fill the tank here and buy snacks and water, since the next services may be a long way off. Regional food is hearty, with trout from mountain streams, potatoes in many forms and strong coffee. Altitude can be a factor, so move slowly and drink plenty of water, especially if you came straight up from sea level.
The valley is a reminder of how much of Peru's history was written on the slopes between the coast and the high plateau. Long before the Incas, farming communities built terraces and irrigation channels here, and some of those structures are still in use. The hills are dotted with ruins and burial sites, and the local traditions still blend Catholic and older Andean beliefs. Walk around the plaza, watch the farmers coming in from the fields, and feel the thinning air before you climb higher.