Can Tho is the capital of the Mekong Delta, a flat green country of rivers, canals and orchards that is built by water and travels by water. The city sits on the Hau River, one of the big distributaries of the Mekong, and its riverfront at Ninh Kieu is the place where people stroll in the evening, eat, and watch the boats. The real show is at dawn, when the floating market at Cai Rang gathers boats loaded with pineapples, watermelons and sweet potatoes, each with a sample of its cargo hung on a pole at the bow so that buyers can see what is for sale from a distance.
This is a landscape you ride rather than conquer. The delta has little elevation, and its roads follow the canals and dykes, running straight past rice fields, coconut palms and fruit orchards, with the odd concrete bridge or narrow footbridge made of bamboo, the famous monkey bridges. Side roads and village lanes are paved but narrow, so you share them with scooters, bicycles and the occasional buffalo. Schoolchildren on bikes pass in white uniforms, and houses are built on stilts or with a boat tied to the front step. The pleasure is in the pace and the endless detail.
Weather is hot and humid all year, and the rainy season, from May to November, brings heavy afternoon downpours that turn the roads slick and flood low sections. The best time to ride is the dry season, from December to April, when the sky is blue, the breeze is dry and the fruit is at its best. Start early to avoid the midday heat, and carry plenty of water.
Can Tho has all the fuel and food you need, with stations along every main road and street stalls serving noodles, grilled fish and the local specialities, including rice-paper rolls and fish cooked in clay pots. Beyond the city the roads are quiet but fuel is less frequent, so keep an eye on the gauge. It is easy to take a wrong turn among the canals and end up on a ferry landing or a dead-end bridge, which is part of the charm, as long as you have the time.