Campo Imperatore is a high plateau of grass, stone and sky under the Gran Sasso, so wide and bare that Italians call it Little Tibet. It lies at about 1,800 metres in the Abruzzo, a long basin among the highest peaks of the Apennines, and above it rises the Corno Grande, at 2,912 metres the highest mountain in the range. The landscape feels unlike most of Italy. There are no villages on the plain itself, only distant ridges, sheep and horses grazing among the tussocks, and a road that crosses the middle like a thin grey thread.
The plateau has a long working history. For centuries shepherds drove their flocks up here from the lowlands in summer, a seasonal migration known as transhumance, and the tradition survives in a quieter form. Sheep cheese, pecorino, and the grilled skewers called arrosticini, made with mutton, are the local food, and the small lentils grown around Santo Stefano di Sessanio are prized. On the plateau's edge stands a hotel and cable car station that played a part in modern history. In 1943, after Italy's armistice, Mussolini was held prisoner there, until German paratroopers landed gliders nearby and flew him out in a daring raid.
Riding here is a pleasure of distance and light. The road climbs from the valley in a series of bends, then runs along the plateau with long views in every direction and few vehicles. The surface is generally good, though winter frost leaves patches, and snow can close the road from late autumn well into spring, so check before you go. Wind is a constant companion, and cloud can drop quickly onto the high ground, cutting visibility to a few metres. Even in midsummer, bring a warm layer, because the air at this height is cool and the temperature falls fast after sunset.
Nature is part of the draw. Below the Corno Grande lies the Calderone, once described as the southernmost glacier in Europe, though it has shrunk dramatically and is now a small remnant. Golden eagles and chamois live on the crags, and in June the meadows bloom with wildflowers. At night, the stars are fierce.
L'Aquila, about seventeen kilometres away, and Isola del Gran Sasso on the other side are the nearest places to fill up, and small mountain refuges and kiosks serve coffee and simple food in season. Check opening hours, since many close early or shut outside the summer and ski months.
Stop at a pull-off and switch off the engine. The silence is large, and it is a fine reward for the climb.