Three rivers come together near Mequinenza: the Ebro, flowing in from the west, and the Segre and Cinca, arriving together from the Pyrenees to the north. The meeting point, now swallowed by the reservoirs behind the dams, has always been a strategic place, and the much-restored castle on the hill above the town has watched over it for centuries. The Camino de la Cova Plana is a track in the hills east of town, towards the Catalan border, and the site recorded here is one of the many prehistoric rock shelters scattered across this dry, rugged landscape.
The country is stark and empty, with low hills of pale sandstone and gypsum, scrub, terraces of almond and olive trees, and the vast blue sheet of the reservoir. It feels remote, though the fertile plain of Lleida is only a short ride away. Downstream, the Ebro continues through the Riba-roja reservoir towards Flix and the Catalan interior.
To the north, along the Segre, the landscape changes dramatically. Around Seròs, Aitona and Alcarràs, the irrigated fields are covered with fruit trees: peaches, nectarines, apples and pears. In late winter and early spring, usually in March, the orchards around Aitona burst into blossom, turning the valley pink and white, and the village organises visits and festivities to celebrate it. It is a beautiful sight, and well worth a detour if you are here at the right time.
The riding is open and flowing. The roads along the reservoirs and through the hills have long views and a mix of fast bends and tighter sections, with very little traffic. Surfaces are generally good, but watch for gravel, agricultural vehicles and the occasional truck from the quarries and farms. The wind, especially the cierzo from the northwest, can be strong and gusty, and in summer the heat is intense, with little shade.
Mequinenza has fuel, shops and restaurants, many catering to the anglers who come for the reservoir's giant catfish. Seròs and Fayón have basic services. Carry water, and avoid riding in the heat of the afternoon in summer. Try local fruit in season, and coca de recapte, a flatbread topped with roasted vegetables, a specialty of the Lleida region.