Camaná is a fishing and farming town at the mouth of a river that actually reaches the sea, which in this part of Peru is a minor miracle. South of Lima, the Pacific coast is one of the driest deserts in the world, a belt of sand and bare rock that goes on for a thousand kilometres, and only a handful of rivers carry enough water down from the Andes to make a green valley. The Camaná is one of them, and the ribbon of rice fields, orchards and reeds around the town is startling after hours of grey and yellow. The town has about sixteen thousand people, with beaches nearby, and it is a favourite summer holiday spot for families from Arequipa, who drive down the long road from the mountains.
The ride here along the Panamericana Sur is a long, hypnotic one. The road runs between sea and cliff, with the Pacific on one side, immense dunes and rocky headlands on the other and, now and then, a small fishing village hanging on the edge. The surface is mostly good, but trucks are heavy and frequent, and drivers overtake on blind bends, so stay alert and keep well to the right. Fog, locally called garúa, rolls in off the cold Humboldt Current and can hide the coast in the early morning, so wait for it to lift. Wind is common in the afternoons, and sand blows across the road.
Camaná is known for its shrimp, camarones, which are caught in the river and cooked in a rich, spicy stew called chupe, usually with potatoes and a poached egg. It is the dish to order here, and it tastes best at a simple family restaurant near the main square. Seafood generally is excellent, and there is fruit in plenty, especially in summer.
All services are available: fuel stations along the highway, banks, cafes and a range of hotels. After a day of riding along the coast, the beach is a good place to rest, though currents can be dangerous, so swim only where locals do. The sunsets over the Pacific are slow and red, and the town takes on a pleasantly sleepy air as the heat fades.