Calvi announces itself from a long way off, with the Genoese citadel on its rock above the bay and the mountains of the Balagne rising behind, snow-capped in spring. It is the natural end, or start, for the west coast road, the D81, which runs south towards Galéria and Porto.
The riding from here is some of the finest on Corsica. The D81 follows the coast, climbing and dropping around headlands and across river valleys, with views of turquoise sea, red rock and maquis, the scented scrub of cistus and myrtle that covers the island. Bends are continuous, the road is narrow, and the surface is variable, with some rough patches and loose gravel. Traffic is light outside July and August, but in summer, buses and campervans can slow progress. Early morning and late afternoon give the best light and coolest temperatures, and a spring ride, with wildflowers on the hillsides, is hard to beat.
The citadel is the main historical sight. Genoa built it in the fifteenth century to control the island, and the town has a long, if slightly doubtful, claim to be the birthplace of Christopher Columbus, a claim promoted by local plaques. The French Foreign Legion's parachute regiment is based nearby, and its soldiers are often seen in the streets. The Calvi Jazz Festival and other summer events fill the squares with music.
Practical matters are simple. Fuel is available in Calvi, but the coastal road south to Porto has little, so fill the tank before you leave. Restaurants along the marina serve fish and local charcuterie, including figatellu, the Corsican liver sausage, and the bakeries open early. The small airport and the narrow-gauge railway to Bastia mean you can get here without a bike, though it is better with one.
Stand on the citadel walls for a moment and look at the long line of the coast you will ride. It is a good reminder of why you came.