Ares del Maestrat sits on a crag so steep that the village seems glued to the rock, and below it, in the Gasulla gorge, the Cingle de la Mola Remigia holds some of the most famous Levantine paintings in Spain, scenes of archers, hunters and even an execution. Calçaes del Matà is a shelter in the same broad landscape near Albocàsser, and with the Gasulla and Valltorta sites it belongs to the World Heritage Site of Rock Art of the Mediterranean Basin. The shelters here are reached on foot, and guided visits can be booked through the local museums.
This part of the Maestrat is a high, rugged plateau with deep ravines, limestone cliffs and pine forests, crossed by drystone walls and dotted with old farmhouses. Villages like Albocàsser, Catí and Ares were once rich from the wool trade, and their churches, town halls and mansions reflect that prosperity. Catí, in particular, has a beautiful Gothic town hall and old houses of wool merchants.
The landscape changes with the seasons: green in spring, golden in summer, and sometimes white with snow in winter. Almond trees blossom in February and March, and the forests smell of pine and herbs. The sky is often clear, with sharp light and long views.
The riding is among the best in the region, with quiet roads, endless curves and dramatic views. The road from Albocàsser to Ares and on to Morella, the great walled town of the Maestrat, is a classic, and the roads down to the coast offer fast, flowing descents. Traffic is light, and surfaces are generally good. Watch for livestock, cyclists and occasional gravel.
Albocàsser has basic services, and Alcalà de Xivert, sixteen kilometres away near the coast, has fuel and more. Lamb, rabbit and, in winter, black truffles dug in the oak woods fill the menus. A meal in Morella, with its castle above and walls around, is a good end to a day in the mountains.