Ingonish is not one village but a string of them, spread around two bays on the Atlantic coast, and it is the gateway to the most celebrated section of the east side of the trail. Behind it rises Cape Smokey, a huge headland that the road climbs in a series of long, curving bends, with the sea far below. The ascent is steep, the views are huge, and the descent into Ingonish is among the most memorable rides on the island.
A narrow peninsula juts into the sea here, Middle Head, and on its tip sits the Keltic Lodge, a stone-and-timber resort opened in the 1940s, with a golf course on the headland. The course, Highlands Links, was designed by Stanley Thompson in the late 1930s and is often ranked among the finest in Canada, with fairways that run between the mountains and the sea. Even if you do not play, the setting is impressive, and the walk out to the end of the headland takes you through spruce forest to a big sea view.
Ingonish Beach, inside the national park, is a long strip of sand with a freshwater lake just behind it, an unusual combination, and the water is warm enough for a swim in late summer. The nearby community has a few shops, restaurants and places to stay, and a petrol station, making it the best place for services on the north-eastern side of the loop. Fill your tank and eat something before you continue.
For riders, the coast road here is a joy. The corners are open and well banked, the surface is smooth, and the views seem to change at every bend. Cape Smokey has a series of tight bends and a steep gradient, so use low gears on the way down. In the morning, fog can hang over the water and burn off slowly, and in autumn the hills glow with colour.
Moose and bears sometimes appear on the road, and in summer the national park's rangers ask visitors to keep their distance. The best time to ride is September, when the air is clear and the first colours begin to turn. If the weather turns, you can wait out a shower in a local cafe, and by the time you finish your coffee, the sky will probably have cleared.