Margaree Harbour is the point where the Cabot Trail meets the Gulf of St. Lawrence for the first time, and the sudden change in scale is striking. After the sheltered green valleys inland, you come out onto a coast of open water, long beaches and low cliffs, with a salty breeze and gulls overhead. The little village at the mouth of the Margaree River is quiet, with a few houses, a small harbour and a fishing wharf, and the feeling of the edge of the world.
The Margaree River is one of the finest Atlantic salmon rivers in eastern Canada, and anglers come from far away to cast flies in its clear pools. The valley behind has long been a farming district, with a mix of Scottish, Acadian and Irish families, and each group has left its mark on the place names and the food. Further north, the road enters Acadian country around Chéticamp, where French is the everyday language, the houses are painted in bright colours, and hooked rugs are a local craft.
For the rider, this stretch is a calm, open ride. The road hugs the coast with gentle bends and long straights, with the ocean shining on one side and green farmland on the other. The surface is generally smooth, and the speeds are relaxed. Wind off the water can be strong, and in the afternoon the sea breeze may push you sideways on exposed sections. Fog rolls in off the gulf on some mornings and lifts by lunchtime.
Services are modest. The village has a few places to eat and some small shops, but fuel is limited, so top up at Baddeck or in the larger settlements nearby. In summer, many small roadside stands sell craft goods and baked treats, including the famous oatcakes, which are worth buying. Check opening hours, since many places close in the shoulder seasons.
Beyond here the trail enters Cape Breton Highlands National Park, and the road begins to climb into the hills. Enjoy the easy riding while it lasts. The coastline here is dotted with small, sandy coves, and the evening light turns the water a pale gold. If you stop for a few minutes on the beach, you will hear the long hiss of the surf, and it will feel like a good place to be.