At Cabo Girão the land simply stops. A cliff drops almost six hundred metres straight into the Atlantic, one of the highest sea cliffs in Europe, and a glass-floored skywalk juts out from the rim so you can look straight down at the waves, the little farms and the red roofs of the fajãs at the bottom. Those narrow flat patches at the foot of the cliff, formed by old landslides, are farmed by people who once reached them only by boat or by steep paths, and today a small cable car also serves them.
Looking down from the platform is a mildly queasy pleasure. Terraced plots of vegetables, grapevines and bananas cling to the ledges, and tiny figures work among them. Looking out, you see the south coast of Madeira curving away toward Funchal, the water changing from deep blue to green near the rocks. Early morning gives the best light and the least cloud, and calm days let you hear the sea far below, a faint rumble like traffic.
The ride in is straightforward. From Câmara de Lobos, a few kilometres east, you climb a well-paved road through villages and plantations, with a succession of bends and fine views of the coast. The car park by the viewpoint fills with coaches in the middle of the day, so arrive early or late. Gusts can be strong near the edge, so take care with your helmet and anything you place on a bike. The glass section of the skywalk can be unsettling if you do not like heights, but the railings are solid and the experience is safe.
There is a café near the viewpoint and a small shop, but you should carry water and some cash. Fuel is available at Câmara de Lobos, only a few kilometres away, and at Ribeira Brava to the west, so there is no need to worry. Weather on Madeira changes fast, and cloud can sweep across the cliff, so check conditions before you commit.
The cliff has long been a landmark for sailors, and the name is sometimes explained as a reference to a navigator who turned back here, although the exact origin is uncertain. Whatever the story, the sense of space is the thing you remember.