Byblos, known to the Lebanese as Jbeil, is one of the contenders for the title of oldest continuously inhabited town on the planet. People have lived on this little headland above the Mediterranean for around seven thousand years, and the Phoenician city here was a great trading port, sending cedar wood from the mountains to Egypt and taking papyrus in return. The Greeks named the city after the papyrus, byblos, and from that word comes the word Bible. The alphabet developed by the Phoenicians, ancestor of Greek and Latin letters, is famously inscribed on the sarcophagus of King Ahiram, found here and now in Beirut's national museum.
The archaeological site lays out the whole sweep of history: Neolithic huts, Bronze Age temples including the Temple of the Obelisks, Roman columns and a small theatre, all overlooked by a Crusader castle built partly from older stone. Below it, the old souk and the little fishing harbour are a pleasant place to wander, with seafood restaurants and the sound of the sea against the old harbour walls.
The coastal highway from Beirut to Tripoli runs past the town, and riding it is an experience: fast, chaotic, crowded with cars, vans and scooters changing lanes with little warning. The real riding lies inland. Roads climb steeply from the coast into the Mount Lebanon range, up the Nahr Ibrahim valley, the river of Adonis, whose waters are said to run red in spring with the blood of the dying god, towards the Afqa grotto and the high villages. The mountain roads are narrow, with tight bends, steep gradients and spectacular views, and surfaces vary greatly. Spring and autumn are ideal; summer on the coast is hot and humid.
Jbeil has fuel, food and plenty of places to stay. Lebanese food is a joy: mezze of hummus, tabbouleh and fattoush, grilled fish and local wines from the Bekaa. Before riding in Lebanon, check current travel advice carefully, as the security situation can change quickly, and expect checkpoints on some roads. Respect local customs, and enjoy the warm welcome the country is known for.