On the northern edge of Workington, near the mouth of the river Derwent, a fragment of stone wall stands alone in a field, a jagged piece of masonry rising above the grass. It is part of Burrow Walls, a Roman fort that guarded the Cumbrian coast, one of the chain of defences that extended from the western end of Hadrian's Wall down the shore to watch for raiders crossing from Scotland and Ireland. Much of the fort's stone was reused in a medieval building on the site, and what survives today is modest, but it is part of the Hadrian's Wall World Heritage site and has a lonely charm, with views over the sea and the river.
Workington is an industrial town that grew rich on coal and iron, and it was famous for making steel rails that were exported around the world. The steelworks have closed, and the town has had a hard time since, but it retains a strong identity. Every Easter, it hosts Uppies and Downies, a chaotic, ancient ball game played through the streets and river between two teams of hundreds of players, with few rules and a lot of mud.
The real attraction for riders lies inland, in the Lake District, only a short ride east. Cockermouth, a pretty market town where William Wordsworth was born, is the gateway, and from there roads lead into the fells. The Whinlatter Pass climbs through forest towards Keswick, while the Newlands and Honister passes offer steep, narrow and spectacular routes through the mountains, with gradients that test both rider and machine. Further south, the Hardknott and Wrynose passes are among the steepest roads in England, with hairpins and gradients of up to one in three. These roads are narrow and busy in summer, with cars, cyclists and walkers, so take care and be patient.
Weather in Cumbria is famously wet, and the fells can be cold and windy even in summer. Roads can be slippery with rain, mud and sheep droppings, and visibility can drop suddenly in mist.
Workington, about two kilometres away, has fuel, supermarkets and cafés. Try a Cumberland sausage, a long coiled sausage seasoned with pepper, served with mash and gravy, or stop at a Lake District pub for a hearty meal by the fire.