Buôn Ma Thuột is the coffee capital of Vietnam, and you can smell it before you see it. The city sits on the red basalt plateau of the Central Highlands, at around five hundred metres, where volcanic soil and a distinct dry season suit robusta better than almost anywhere in the world. Vietnam is the second-largest coffee producer on earth, and this province, Đắk Lắk, grows a big share of it. In the cafés, the coffee comes in a small steel filter that drips slowly into a glass, thick, bitter and sweet with condensed milk. Order it, sit on a plastic stool, and let the street move around you.
The name comes from the Ê Đê people, the indigenous community that has lived in the highlands for centuries in long stilt houses, and elephants were once a major part of the local economy. Today, a few remain in the villages and national park nearby, and responsible tourism has moved away from riding them. There is a coffee museum in the city with a good collection of history and equipment, and the waterfalls at Dray Nur and Dray Sáp lie a short ride to the southwest, wide and noisy after the rains.
History arrives bluntly here. In March 1975, North Vietnamese forces attacked Buôn Ma Thuột, taking the city after a short fight and starting the offensive that ended the war within two months. A tank stands as a monument in the city today. The Hồ Chí Minh Road, once a secret supply line through the mountains, runs through the highlands and has been rebuilt as a modern highway, and following it from the north brings you through forest, rubber plantations and farm country to arrive here.
The riding on the plateau is generally easy, but demanding in its own way: trucks, buses, scooters, dogs and pedestrians all share the road, and you should expect surprises. Surfaces are mostly decent, with occasional potholes after the rains. The dry season, from about November to April, is the sensible time, with cool nights and clear skies. The wet season brings afternoon downpours.
Fuel is easy in a city of this size, and you will find pumps on all main roads. Food is cheap and excellent, with bún, grilled meat and pho on every corner. Finish the ride with a long coffee.