Bumthang is not a single valley but a cluster of four, high in the middle of Bhutan, and it is regarded as the country's spiritual heartland. The main town, Jakar, lies at about 2,600 metres, and is a small place with a big dzong, the Yuedrel Tse, standing on the ridge above the town, as well as one of the country's oldest temples, Jambay Lhakhang, which is said to date from the seventh century. Other temples, such as Kurjey Lhakhang and Tamshing, hold a place in the history of Buddhism in Bhutan, and the valley is full of stories about the saint Guru Rinpoche, who is said to have meditated here.
The scenery is gentler than the west of the country. The valley floors are broad and level, planted with buckwheat, barley and potatoes, and with apple orchards, with forests of blue pine on the slopes and white chortens beside the roads. The food is distinctive: buckwheat pancakes, called khuley, and noodles, as well as Swiss-style cheese and apple products that were introduced in the twentieth century. A local brewery produces a beer named for the red panda, and a distillery makes apple brandy, if you are not riding.
Getting there is a journey. From Trongsa, the road climbs over the Yotong La pass at around 3,400 metres, where the mist, the wind and the prayer flags give a sense of crossing into another land, and then descends into the Chumey valley and on to Jakar. The roads are mountain roads, with sharp bends, drops and few railings, and landslides are common in the monsoon from June to September. Surfaces are variable, with roadworks in many places. The bike must be in good order, the pace steady, and the plan flexible. Foreign riders must travel with an approved operator and guide.
Fuel is available in Jakar, but not far beyond, so fill up before heading further. The nights are cold, even in summer, and in winter the temperature falls below freezing, with snow on the passes. The best times are April and May, when the rhododendrons bloom, and October and November, when the skies are clear. In autumn the harvest brings a festival, the Jambay Lhakhang Drup, with a famous fire dance and masked dances, and the whole valley comes alive.