The bullring at Almadén is not round, and that is the first thing to know about it. It is a polygon, built in the eighteenth century, and by tradition it is among the oldest bullrings in Spain. It stands in the middle of the town, and the houses along one side were built to form part of the ring itself, so that the balconies of ordinary homes overlook the arena. The effect is odd and charming, a place where the daily life of a mining town and its festivals are interwoven. During the fiestas, the town fills with people and horses and the sand is raked, and at other times it is a quiet space where you can just look around.
Bullfighting is a controversial subject in Spain and many people, including many Spaniards, oppose it. But the architecture of old rings like this one is also a record of how towns organised their public life, and Almadén's is a good example, solid and plain, with whitewashed walls and wooden barriers. The history is tied up with the mines, because the royal administration, which ran the town, also built the public buildings. Standing in the stands, you can imagine the miners and their families packing in for a rare day off.
The region around is quiet, dry hill country. The road toward Almadén from the north passes through the Valle de Alcudia, a long, wide valley of pasture and holm oak, with sheep, cattle and the occasional stork. It is gentle riding, with wide, sweeping views rather than technical bends, and it is best in the cool hours of morning and evening. The southern horizon is the Sierra Madrona, and the northern edge of the Sierra Morena, where the land gets wilder and more wooded. Weather can change quickly, and summer thunderstorms can be fierce.
There are no big towns near, so rely on Almadén itself for fuel and food, and do not count on finding open stations in the villages after dark. The bars around the plaza serve strong coffee and plates of local cheese, and the air in the evening is full of the smell of grilled meat from the restaurants. If the bullring is open, it is worth a quick look, even for those who have no interest in the sport, because the building says a good deal about the town.