Bukkekjerka sits on the west coast of Andøya, where the road runs close to the open sea and a short walkway leads out over the rocks to a viewing point. The name means something like the goat church, and the story behind it is nothing more than the shape of a rock that someone once thought looked like a church, with goats grazing nearby. The platform that now stands here, part of the scenic route programme, is a simple piece of design, set low in the landscape, with a place to sit and watch the sea. It is the sort of place where you do not need much to enjoy yourself: a flask, a windproof jacket and a quiet half hour.
The coast here is rough and exposed, with waves breaking on dark rock and white foam running up the shore. Beyond the shore, the sea stretches to the horizon, and on a clear day the light on the water is dazzling. Andøya is an unusual island, with large areas of peat bog, called mires, that are home to cloudberries, which ripen in late summer and are the pride of the north. The island also has a patch of unusually young sedimentary rock for this part of Norway, and it is known for fossil finds. A rocket range operates on the island too, and it is used for launching research rockets into the northern sky.
For a rider, the road along the coast is a delight. It is a long, quiet stretch, with open views, a smooth surface and easy bends, and you can ride for long periods without seeing another vehicle. The wind is the chief problem, as there is nothing to stop it, so be prepared for strong gusts, especially near the coast. In autumn and winter, storms can make the road wet or icy. On a clear summer evening, the midnight sun turns everything to gold, and the experience is hard to forget.
Andenes and Myre are the nearest towns with fuel and services, and both are a short ride along the coast. Food is available in both, and a coffee and a waffle in a local café is a good way to warm up. Carry a layer for the wind, and take care not to leave the boardwalk, as the thin soil and vegetation are fragile. In the long light of late summer, it is a good place to watch the sun slide slowly toward the horizon.