Gua Harimau means Tiger Cave, and the name hints at the stories that surround this limestone hill in the Lenggong Valley. The cave was excavated by archaeologists in the first decade of this century, and what they found was remarkable: a large number of human burials from the Neolithic and later periods, buried with pottery, tools and ornaments, which helped show that people lived and buried their dead here over thousands of years.
Researchers studying the skeletons learned about the health, diet and ancestry of ancient people in the peninsula, since DNA and isotope work can reveal where they came from. Some skeletons were buried in a crouched position, others laid out with grave goods that included bronze and iron, showing contact with wider trading networks. Findings like these are part of why Lenggong was listed by UNESCO, along with its tools and Perak Man.
The hill rises sharply from the plain, and the cave is entered through a wide opening halfway up. The forest around it is humid and loud with insects, and monsoon rain makes the paths slippery. The limestone is fretted by water into sharp pinnacles, and bats stream out at dusk. Wildlife is not hard to see, with squirrels, macaques, and a chorus of frogs after rain.
Visits should be planned locally. Access is usually controlled, so ask at the Lenggong archaeological gallery about guides and permission, and wear boots, long sleeves and repellent. The nearest town for fuel is Lenggong, and Gerik, on the East-West Highway, lies further north, with the forest of the Belum area beyond. A meal of rice with fish curry and a glass of iced tea in a village stall completes the visit. Be respectful, since graves are involved, and do not touch or remove anything, however small a potsherd or bone fragment may look lying loose in the soil. Local people know these hills well and are usually glad to explain what they know, so a few polite questions and a small purchase at a stall go a long way toward making the visit welcome. The valley rewards slow riders more than fast ones.