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Bud

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Bud is a tiny fishing village on the coast of Møre og Romsdal, and it has a big place in Norwegian history. The old fishing hamlet sits on a low, rocky shore, facing the open Atlantic, with a harbour, a few houses and a church. In the sixteenth century, it was one of the largest fishing stations on the coast, and in 1533, the Norwegian nobility gathered here to choose a new king, in a failed attempt to hold off Danish control. During the Second World War, the Germans built a coastal fortress here, the Ergan Coastal Fortress, which can still be visited, with guns, bunkers and tunnels. Molde, the nearest town of size, is over twenty kilometres away.

The reason most riders come is the Atlantic Road, the Atlanterhavsveien, a short stretch of road that hops across a string of small islands and skerries on eight bridges, including the curving Storseisundet Bridge, which seems to end in the air from one angle. It was opened in 1989 and has become a classic, with the sea crashing against the rocks in storms and waves occasionally washing over the road. The road is only about eight kilometres long, and on a calm day, it is a gentle ride with fishing anglers standing on the bridges. On a stormy day, it is thrilling, though also dangerous.

The surface is excellent and the curves are smooth, but wind is a big factor, and crosswinds on the bridges can be strong. Rain and spray reduce grip, so take care. In summer, the road is busy with tourists, so ride early or late. In winter, storms can close it. The nearby fishing villages have simple restaurants where you can eat fresh fish, including fish soup and fried cod, and there are small shops selling coffee and cakes.

Fuel is available at Elnesvågen and Molde, but not at Bud, so fill up in advance. The area is rich in birds, and whales and seals are occasionally spotted from the shore. The light, in the evening, is soft and golden, and the sea changes colour with every cloud. Bud is a calm place to finish a ride, with the sound of the sea in your ears.

Read it in a ride

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