Buck Hill is one of the high points on the scenic loop of the south unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Park, and from its bare knob you can see more of the badlands than almost anywhere else along the road. The land falls away to the Little Missouri River in a tangle of ridges and flat-topped buttes, the prairie rolls off in every direction to a horizon so distant that it curves, and the wind makes sure you remember that you are standing in the open. There is a small car park, a short path and a view, and that is all it needs.
The loop is the thing. Thirty-six miles of paved road wind through the south unit, passing prairie dog towns, hills of grass and cottonwood bottoms, and offering a series of overlooks over the canyon country. Bison graze beside the road, often walking along it as if they own it, which they do, and wild horses wander in bands across the prairie. Prairie dogs bark from their mounds, golden eagles circle overhead, and in spring the meadowlarks sing from every fence post. The park honours Theodore Roosevelt, who ranched here in the 1880s, and the landscape remains much as he knew it.
The riding is a joy because it is so unpressured. The road is smooth, with gentle gradients and long, easy bends, and the speed limit is low, since the animals have right of way. Heat in July and August can be fierce, with thunderstorms common in the afternoon, so mornings and evenings are the best times for riding and for seeing wildlife. Wind is almost constant, and gusts can be strong near exposed ridges, so hold the bars firmly. Stay well away from bison, which are bigger and faster than they look, and never approach a wild horse.
The park has few services. The visitor centre in Medora sells food and souvenirs, and there are toilets and picnic areas along the loop, but fuel is limited to outside the park, so fill up in Belfield or Medora before entering. Bring water, snacks and a layer, and keep your phone charged, since signal is patchy.
Walk to the top of the hill, face the wind and look out. There is a lot of land here, and not much of it has changed.