Wooden churches are the signature of this part of Romania, and Sălaj has some of the finest outside Maramureș. In the hills around Buciumi, tall shingled steeples rise above hay meadows, and inside the dark timber interiors the walls are covered with faded paintings of saints, angels and devils. Many were built in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries by village carpenters who had no architect, only a feel for proportion, and the best of them seem to grow out of the ground.
Dosul Șigăului, one of several hill points around Buciumi, about six kilometres from Stârciu, is a ridge name rather than a landmark, and the church story belongs to the whole district. Transylvanian villages here often have a Greek Catholic history. In 1700, many Romanian Orthodox in Transylvania accepted union with Rome in exchange for rights under Habsburg rule, and this Greek Catholic Church became a pillar of Romanian national awakening. It was banned by the communist government in 1948, its property was given to the Orthodox Church, and many congregations met secretly until 1989. Today, in many villages, two churches stand close together, one old and wooden, one new and concrete, which can lead to disputes but also to some very lovely architecture.
If a church is open, step in quietly and ask permission to look around, and respect the rule that women cover their heads and men remove hats. Often a key is kept by a neighbour, and a small tip is welcome. Look at the paintings, which usually include a Last Judgement, and at the carved doors.
Riding here is on small hilly roads with plenty of bends, loose stones and potholes, and a lot of agricultural traffic. The main road through the valleys is decent, but the lanes up to the hill villages can be rough. Fog in the early morning and storms in the afternoon are common in summer. Fuel is hard to come by locally, because Stârciu is tiny, so fill up in Zalău or another larger town before you go. Basic shops stock water, bread and sweets.
Early morning, when the church bells ring and the hay smells sweet, is the best time to arrive.