Bahrain was once a pearl island, and its fortune depended on a harvest that took place under water. For centuries before oil, the men of Muharraq sailed out into the Gulf in the summer months to dive for oysters, going down on a single breath with a nose clip and a stone to carry them to the bottom, and bringing up baskets of shells in the hope of finding a pearl. The Bahraini pearls were famous, and their trade supported merchants, boat owners and whole districts. In the 1930s the Japanese invented cultured pearls, and the market collapsed, which is partly why Bahrain was so ready for oil.
The seashore at Bū Māhir is on the southern tip of Muharraq island, and it was the starting point for some of the pearling voyages, with a fort, a pier and a view across the water. It is part of a trail of buildings and sites in Muharraq, which UNESCO listed in 2012 as a testimony to the island's pearling economy, including merchants' houses, shops and a mosque. The old town of Muharraq, with its narrow lanes, coral-stone houses and wind towers, is a quiet and rewarding place to wander, and some of the houses have been restored.
Bahrain is tiny, flat and well connected, so a ride here is easy. The King Fahd Causeway links the island to Saudi Arabia, and the roads on the island are wide, smooth and busy, with fast traffic and wide junctions. Sakhir, in the south, has the Formula One circuit, and the desert road there is a favourite of local riders. The heat is intense in summer, with humidity too, so the best time to ride is from November to March. A fresh sea breeze at Bū Māhir is welcome, though it may be hazy with dust.
Fuel is plentiful and cheap in Muharraq and nearby Manama, and there are cafes, bakeries and restaurants in the old town. Try the local dates and the Arabic coffee, served with cardamom, and the fish dishes, such as machboos, a spiced rice with fish or meat. Dress modestly in the old town and mosque areas, and be aware that Friday is a quiet day, with many places closed in the morning.