Brú na Bóinne means the bend of the Boyne, and the loop of the river that gives it its name holds one of the most important prehistoric landscapes in Europe. Three great passage tombs, Newgrange, Knowth and Dowth, stand on a low ridge above the water, built by farmers about five thousand years ago. That makes them older than Stonehenge and older than the pyramids of Giza, a thought that tends to silence even the chattiest visitor.
Newgrange is the one most people come to see. A great round mound faced with white quartz, it hides a long stone passage and a chamber with a corbelled roof, and at dawn on the winter solstice a shaft of sunlight enters through a small opening above the door and slowly lights the floor of the chamber. The builders aligned it with deliberate care. Knowth, nearby, is surrounded by smaller mounds and holds the largest collection of megalithic art in Europe, with spirals and zigzags carved on its kerbstones.
Access is organised through a visitor centre on the south bank of the river, from where a bus takes visitors to the monuments, and booking ahead is essential in summer. The village of Slane, about five kilometres away, is small, with a famous castle that has hosted rock concerts, a bridge over the Boyne and a few pubs. Drogheda, a larger town of over 33,000 people, lies nine kilometres to the east and is the place for fuel and supplies. Not far from here, in 1690, the armies of William of Orange and James II fought the Battle of the Boyne.
The roads of the Boyne valley are gentle and green, winding between hedges and low hills, and the riding is relaxed rather than thrilling. Rain is common, and the roads can be slippery. The best seasons are late spring and early autumn, when the light is soft. A visit takes a couple of hours, and a pint in Slane afterwards is the natural end.