At around 2,400 metres, the road from Malang over the Tengger massif reaches the rim of one of the most extraordinary landscapes in Indonesia. From here, at the southern edge of the great caldera, you look down into a vast, flat plain of volcanic sand, the Sea of Sand, with the smoking cone of Bromo rising from it and, beyond, the perfect cone of Semeru, the highest mountain on Java at 3,676 metres, puffing out regular plumes of ash. It is a view that makes people stop talking.
The Tengger caldera is about ten kilometres across, the remains of an ancient volcano that collapsed after a massive eruption, and inside it new cones have grown, including Bromo, Batok and others. The whole area is part of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, which also protects forests, lakes and the slopes of Semeru. Just below the rim on this side lie grassy hills and valleys, green and soft after the rains, known locally as the Teletubbies hills, and a savanna where horses graze.
The Tengger people, who live in villages around the caldera, are one of the few Hindu communities on Java, descendants, according to legend, of Majapahit nobles who fled to the mountains when Islam spread across the island. They farm the steep slopes, growing potatoes, cabbages and onions, and they hold Bromo sacred, making offerings to the volcano during the annual Yadnya Kasada festival. Their villages are built of wood and brick, with bright painted doors, and the people wear sarongs wrapped around their shoulders against the cold.
The road up from Malang through Tumpang is steep, narrow and winding, with a rough surface in places and very tight hairpins near the top. It is popular with riders, and with jeeps carrying tourists, so expect traffic, especially at weekends. The descent into the Sea of Sand is on a steep, sometimes sandy track, and riding on the sand itself requires skill and confidence. There are no services on the rim, so fill up in Tumpang or Malang, and dress for winter, because it is cold at this altitude, especially before dawn. Sunrise and early morning offer the best light and clearest views.