Bridgeport is a small, sun-baked county seat in the eastern Sierra, at the edge of a high valley of sagebrush and meadow, ringed by snow-capped peaks. Fewer than six hundred people live here, at an elevation of about sixty-five hundred feet, and the main street along Highway 395 is a short row of cafes, motels, a store and a stately white courthouse. That courthouse, built in 1880 in a Victorian style with a cupola, is one of the oldest in California still in use, and gives the town a quiet dignity.
The valley's history is tied to mining and ranching. In the 1860s, the gold and silver strikes at Bodie, about thirteen miles to the north-east, drew thousands to the high desert, and Bridgeport became a supply town for the camps. Bodie is now a ghost town in a state of arrested decay, with the buildings left as they were when the mine closed, and is a state historic park. The road to it is partly unpaved, and the town is a long, strange step into the past.
For those arriving from Sonora Pass, the descent into the east side is a revelation. The road drops from the forested west slope into a dry, open landscape of sagebrush, rock and big skies, and the temperature rises sharply. Highway 395 follows the valley, with the Sierra crest on the west and the Nevada desert on the east, and runs smooth and fast, with long straights and gentle bends. Wind can be strong, and weather changes quickly, with the odd summer thunderstorm and snow in winter.
Bridgeport has fuel and basic services, plus a few places to eat, and the nearby Bridgeport Reservoir is a favourite for fishing. Hot springs scattered through the area, including Travertine Hot Springs just south of town, are good for a soak after a day on the road. The scenery is at its best in autumn, when aspens glow along the creeks and the air is crisp. In the evening, the light on the mountains is warm, and the town goes quiet early.