The map gives this stop a name, the Bridge of San Rafael, and a spot on the edge of the valley of the Río Laja, west of San Miguel de Allende, close to the small settlement of La Cieneguita. What I can say is how a bridge like this fits the country. San Miguel stands on the slopes above the Laja, a river that wanders across the highland plateau of the Bajío, and for centuries the traffic of mule trains, wagons and pilgrims had to cross it somewhere. A stone bridge on a colonial road is a small, sturdy thing, of arches and cutwaters, and it is often older than anything else for miles.
The land around is open, dry and gently rolling, covered in mesquite, huisache and prickly pear. In the rainy season, from June to September, the river fills and the fields turn green, and afternoon storms bring a smell of wet dust. Cattle graze among the scrub, and small ranches and chapels dot the roads. Further on lies the Presa Allende, a large reservoir that attracts herons and pelicans, handy for a quiet picnic.
Roads here are typical of rural Guanajuato: narrow, patched asphalt with no shoulders, sudden speed bumps called topes at the edge of each village, and potholes that appear after storms. Local drivers are quick, and trucks and pickups sometimes overtake in places where they should not, so keep to the right and ride defensively. Dogs and livestock wander onto the road, and after dark visibility is poor, so do your riding in daylight.
La Cieneguita is a tiny settlement with a few shops, and San Miguel, some six kilometres off, has fuel, restaurants and everything else a rider might want. Late afternoon, with the low sun on the stone and the hills turning purple, is the nicest hour. Carry water, sunscreen and a light waterproof, because the highland sun is strong at nearly two thousand metres, and the evenings turn cool.