The silver of Guanajuato came with a price, and the price was a war. In the middle of the sixteenth century, as the Spanish pushed north and the roads began to carry wagons of ore, the Chichimeca peoples of this high plateau resisted, and for several decades attacks on convoys made the journey dangerous. The Spanish answered with forts, called presidios, along the road, and with settlements of Indian allies, and the old road, the Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, grew up as a fortified corridor.
The bridge at La Quemada is part of that road, a stone structure in the open country of the Bajío, north of Guanajuato, where dry hills, mesquite and cactus alternate with irrigated farmland. UNESCO listed the Camino Real in 2010. The region has more recent history, too: a short ride south is Dolores Hidalgo, where in 1810 the priest Miguel Hidalgo called for rebellion against Spanish rule, an event Mexicans celebrate each September.
Riding here is easy and open, with gently rolling roads and big skies, and traffic is moderate except on the main highway. The roads between towns are generally in decent condition, though village streets are cobbled and often punctuated with speed bumps, and cattle sometimes wander onto the road. Dawn and late afternoon give the best light, and midday sun can be fierce, so a cooling layer under the jacket helps. Rainfall comes in short, intense bursts in summer, and winter nights can be cold at this altitude.
San Felipe, the nearest town of any size, has fuel, shops and food, and it is a calm place with a pleasant plaza. The area around is known for its small chilli-growing farms and goat dishes, and cabrito is a common choice on menus.