Brescia is one of those Italian cities that is much better than its reputation. It lies at the foot of the Alps, on the edge of the Lombard plain, with the Garda and Iseo lakes close by and the Val Trompia and Val Camonica running north into the mountains. It has Roman remains, including a temple and theatre on the slopes beneath the castle, as well as a medieval and Renaissance heart. The Santa Giulia monastery, now a museum, is a UNESCO site, and the castle on the hill above gives a wide view across the rooftops.
For motorcyclists and car people, Brescia means one thing above all: the Mille Miglia. That race, run between Brescia and Rome and back on public roads from 1927 until 1957, made the city a pilgrimage point for enthusiasts. It was stopped after a fatal accident, and today it lives on as a classic-car rally every spring, when the town fills with beautiful old machines. There is a museum devoted to the race in a former monastery, and the route is a good reason for the ride that starts here.
Arriving or leaving by road means dealing with a busy industrial city, with a good deal of traffic around the ring roads and the A4 motorway. Tram-free but full of one-way streets, the old centre is a limited traffic zone, the ZTL, so do not ride into it without checking, as cameras issue fines. Park on the outskirts and walk in. Early morning is the best time to leave, with mist sometimes lying over the plain and the air cool.
Fuel and food are no trouble, since Brescia has a population of nearly two hundred thousand and plenty of everything. The local table is hearty, with casoncelli, a stuffed pasta served with butter and sage, and spiedo, a slow-cooked skewered meat dish, as signature dishes. The wines of Franciacorta, a sparkling wine region just to the west, are among Italy's best.
Late spring and early autumn are the finest times to be here, with warm days and clear views toward the mountains. It is a good city to start a long run south toward Rome, and a pleasant one to come home to.