South-east of Madrid the land drops towards the Tagus in a broken country of chalky hills, olive groves and vineyards, and Brea de Tajo sits on a ridge above the valley, a small village of white houses and a big church. The river runs a few kilometres south, between Estremera and Driebes, in a wide valley of poplars and irrigated fields.
This is the edge of the Madrid region, where it meets Castilla-La Mancha, and it feels like a different world from the city. The summers are hot and dry, the winters cold, and the villages are quiet. Villarejo de Salvanés, to the west, has a tall castle keep built by the Order of Santiago, and Chinchón, a little further, has one of the most famous plaza mayors in Spain, a ring of wooden balconies around a square used for bullfights.
For a swim, be careful. The Tagus here is slow and muddy, and its banks are often overgrown. There are small reservoirs in the area, but swimming in them is not always permitted. The best option on a hot day may be a municipal pool in one of the villages, which open in summer.
The riding is a mix of fast, straight roads across the plateau and winding descents into the valley. The surfaces are generally good, and traffic is light. Watch for agricultural vehicles, and in summer, the heat.
Brea has a bar and little else, so treat Villarejo de Salvanés or Fuentidueña de Tajo as your fuel stops. In July and August ride early or late; at four in the afternoon the plateau shimmers and even the lizards hide.