Sheep run the economy of these hills, and the shepherds have a rhythm that has barely changed. In spring the flocks move up from the villages to the hill pastures around Bozna, in the Sălaj county of north-west Romania, and stay until autumn, with dogs, a few helpers and a hut where the milk is turned into cheese. Osoiul Ciontului is a hilltop name, about six kilometres from Meseșenii de Jos, and it is an invitation to think about this old pastoral life.
The cheeses are simple and good. Caș is the fresh, soft cheese made right after the milking, telemea is a salty, brined cheese similar to feta, and urdă is a ricotta-like curd made from the whey. Smoked cheese is wrapped in spruce bark in some regions, and mămăligă, the polenta that is the national staple, comes with sour cream and cheese. Bring an empty stomach if a shepherd offers you a bite. Refusing can offend.
The dogs deserve a word. Romanian shepherd dogs are big, rough-coated and serious, and they will protect their flock against wolves and strangers. On a motorcycle, you may find yourself being escorted along the road by a pack with no friendly intent, so slow down, do not stop in their midst and keep your speed steady until you pass. They almost never pursue beyond the edge of their pasture.
The riding itself is gentle country-lane stuff. The roads follow valley floors and cross low ridges, with bends tight enough to keep you busy and gradients that are rarely severe. Surfaces vary from smooth asphalt to broken patches, and there is gravel at junctions. Traffic is light, and the main hazards are animals, slow tractors and horse-drawn wagons. In summer, thunderstorms build quickly in the afternoon, and the sky can go dark in minutes.
Fuel is in the larger towns, and Meseșenii de Jos, with a few thousand people, is the nearest sizeable place. Small shops sell basics, and bread, cheese and sausage make a decent roadside lunch.
Spring brings green slopes and the first lambs; autumn, with its mist and woodsmoke, is calmer.