Bourg-Murat is a roadside village on the high plateau between Réunion's coast and its volcano, and it is a place of mist, cattle and the smell of wet grass. The altitude is felt immediately: after the warm, humid coast the air is cool, often cloudy, and in winter you may even see frost. The Plaine des Cafres, which surrounds the village, is dairy country, with green pastures, cows and farms, and it feels oddly like the highlands of Europe on a tropical island.
The main reason to stop is the Cité du Volcan, a museum on the edge of the village devoted to the Piton de la Fournaise, which is one of the most active volcanoes in the world. It erupts every year or two, usually in the uninhabited summit area, and lava often flows down to the sea on the east coast where the road gets crossed by black rock. The museum is a good place to learn how the island was built and what to do when an eruption occurs, and the cafés nearby are warm refuges when the weather turns.
The Route du Volcan climbs from here through a landscape of forest and heath, and it becomes steadily wilder. The road is well maintained, with smooth tarmac and long, steady bends, but it is a mountain road and the weather can change quickly, with fog and sudden rain. Mornings are best for clear views of the volcano and the surrounding peaks, and by afternoon cloud usually rolls in. In winter it can be bitingly cold, so bring layers and waterproofs.
Practicalities are easy here. Le Tampon, the large town about ten kilometres down the slope, has petrol stations, supermarkets and everything you might need, and some fuel is usually available along the main road in the plains villages as well. Fill up before you climb to the volcano, because there is nothing beyond. Food in Bourg-Murat is typically Creole: rice, beans, rougail sausage and chicken curry, along with the local cheese and yoghurt from the dairy farms. A sweet bread or a bowl of soup hits the spot on a chilly day.
Réunion is a French department, so euros are used and French is spoken, along with Creole. A friendly bonjour goes a long way.