Geneva's lake shore is not the only place where Switzerland feels close at hand, and the stretch north of the city, around Versoix, is one of the quietest. Versoix itself is a calm, lakeside town with a little harbour, a long promenade and a medieval-looking centre, and it is easy to forget how close the French border is.
The history of this region is a mix of French, Savoyard and Swiss influences. Geneva was the city of Calvin, and the Reformation shaped its character, and the French writer Voltaire lived just across the border at Ferney from 1758, welcoming visitors and writing his pamphlets in safety from both the French and the Swiss authorities. The label also mentions Lac de Chalain, which lies in the French Jura, a lake known for the traces of prehistoric villages built on piles along its shores.
For the ride, the Jura is the attraction. A short run from here takes you up to the Col de la Faucille, at around thirteen hundred metres, through a series of bends and hairpins with views back over Lake Geneva and, on a clear day, to Mont Blanc. The roads in the Jura are quieter than the Alps, with long forested ridges, alpine pastures and dairy farms that produce Gruyère and Comté cheese. Switzerland requires a motorway vignette, a sticker you buy at the border or at a service station, if you plan to use the motorways, and speed limits are strictly enforced, with cameras common.
Versoix has fuel, cafes and bakeries, and Geneva is within easy reach for anything more. Prices in Switzerland are high, particularly for food and drink, so a picnic with bread, cheese and sausages can be a good idea. The best months for riding in the Jura are May to October, and the lake shore is pleasant all year, with the bise, a cold north wind, sometimes sweeping across the water in winter.