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Boroșneu Mare - Pe Dealul Cetății

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Southeast of Sfântu Gheorghe, in Covasna county, the plain of the Râul Negru, the Black River, opens out between the mountains, a broad basin of fields, meadows and villages enclosed by the forested ridges of the Eastern Carpathians. Boroșneu Mare is one of the larger villages in this basin, a Székely community with a church and a cluster of farms, and the hill above it, Dealul Cetății, the Fortress Hill, takes its name from old earthworks or a fortification recorded there. It is one of many such sites in the area, more a landmark than a monument.

This corner of Transylvania is known for its mineral springs and mofettes, natural vents of carbon dioxide used for therapeutic baths. The town of Covasna, a short ride to the east, is a spa town with dozens of springs, and the gas-filled mofette rooms are a curious experience. Further north, Bálványos is a small resort in the forest, close to the ruins of an old castle and to Lake Sfânta Ana, a perfect crater lake in the Ciomatu volcano, the only one of its kind in Romania.

Nearby, at Reci, there is a surprising sight: a patch of sand dunes in the middle of the Transylvanian countryside, now partly covered with birch woods and protected as a nature reserve. It is a strange and lovely place for a short walk.

The riding in the basin is easy and flat, with long straights and wide views of the mountains on all sides. The roads that climb into the hills, towards the Bodoc mountains to the north or the Întorsura Buzăului pass to the south, are more interesting, with bends, gradients and forest. Surfaces vary; the main roads are generally good, but minor roads can be rough. Watch for horse-drawn carts, livestock and dogs, and be aware that bears live in the forests and are sometimes seen near roads.

The nearest towns with full services are Sfântu Gheorghe and Târgu Secuiesc, both with fuel, supermarkets and restaurants. Brașov, one of the most beautiful cities in Romania, is less than an hour away. The weather is continental, with warm summers and cold winters; the basin is known for its cold, foggy winter mornings. Spring and early autumn are the best seasons for riding.

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