The name Compounds is the clue to what makes this place unusual: Borobudur is not alone. The monument forms part of a larger sacred landscape in the Kedu Plain, where the river Progo and the river Elo meet, a setting that Javanese tradition regarded as a spiritual centre. Two smaller temples, Pawon and Mendut, stand to the east of the main monument in a straight line, and the three together were included in the UNESCO listing. Archaeologists still argue over exactly why they were aligned that way, but the idea that pilgrims once walked between them as part of a ritual route is widely accepted.
This part of Java is one of the most fertile places in Asia. Volcanic ash from Merapi and Merbabu, the neighbouring peaks, has enriched the soil for thousands of years, and the plain is a patchwork of rice paddies, tobacco, chilli and banana plants, with coconut palms along the lanes. Seen from the upper terraces, the fields shine green after rain, the mountains stand behind them, and the whole scene feels as if the temple has been dropped into a garden.
For the rider, the back lanes around the temple are far nicer than the main highway. They run along irrigation canals and between rice fields, narrow and often shared with bicycles, ox carts, schoolchildren and ducks, and the speed limit is whatever the smallest vehicle can manage. Surfaces are generally smooth but can be slippery with mud and wet leaves, and it is wise to carry cash for small purchases, since cards are not widely accepted off the main roads. Petrol can be found in Muntilan and Mertoyudan, both large towns with several stations, and in many villages roadside stalls sell bottled fuel.
The dry season, from roughly May to September, is the best time for a visit, with clearer skies and less mud. The rainy season fills the sky with dramatic cloud and brings a steady heat, and Merapi sometimes hides itself completely behind the weather.
Take a break in a village, buy a cup of coffee from a stall and watch life pass by. You will probably be offered snacks, asked where you are from and asked for a photo, in a friendly way that can quickly become the best part of the day.