In the grottoes of Borgio Verezzi, the limestone has been stained by iron, copper and manganese, and the stalactites glow in shades of red, yellow and green, some of the most colourful caves in Italy. They were found in the 1930s and are now open on guided tours. It is a cool, otherworldly escape on a hot day.
Borgio is the lower village, on the coast between Finale Ligure and Pietra Ligure, and Verezzi sits high above, a cluster of stone hamlets clinging to the hillside with views over the sea. In summer, the small square of Verezzi hosts a theatre festival, with the sea glittering below the stage. It is an enchanting setting.
This stop marks the end of the ride from the Vésubie and Tinée valleys, down through the mountains to the coast, and it is a fitting place to finish. The roads from the mountains descend in tight bends through olive groves and pine woods, and the sea appears suddenly at the end of the valley.
The beach at Borgio is a mix of sand and pebbles, with clear water, and the sea is calm in summer. The towns along the coast are lively in the evenings, with restaurants, bars and gelato shops.
Dinner should be simple and local: trofie with pesto, which Liguria invented, and a bottle of oil made from the small Taggiasca olives to take home if the panniers allow. For fuel and late shopping, Pietra Ligure is two minutes along the coast.