Boppard sits on the biggest bend in the Middle Rhine, where the river swings so sharply that it looks like a lake from the hills above. It is a handsome town of about sixteen thousand people with a long riverside promenade, a Roman past, and a backdrop of steep vineyards, and it is one of the better places along the Rhine Gorge to stop, because it has proper size, proper shops and enough character to hold your attention. The Middle Rhine from Bingen to Koblenz is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and Boppard is one of its more substantial towns.
The Romans built a fort here, called Bodobrica, and parts of its walls still stand in the old town, among medieval churches and half-timbered houses. The Rhine was an important trade route for centuries, and Boppard had its own toll station, which gave the town both wealth and conflict with the archbishop of Trier. The slope above the bend, known as the Bopparder Hamm, is one of the largest continuous vineyards in the region, and its Riesling is well regarded. A chairlift climbs to a viewpoint known as the Vierseenblick, where the river appears as four separate lakes from above, a trick of the bends.
The ride along the river is the main attraction. The B9 runs close to the water, with views of castles, ferries and cargo ships on the other side, and the railway line right beside it, carrying frequent freight and passenger trains. It is a busy road, with traffic and some noise, but the scenery is hard to beat. For a quieter option, climb into the hills on the side roads that lead to viewpoints and small villages, where the corners are tighter and the air smells of woodland. The roads in the Hunsrück plateau are smooth and curvy, with little traffic.
Boppard has fuel, supermarkets and many cafes and restaurants, so it is an easy stop. Riesling is the wine to order, and a plate of Flammkuchen or a slice of something sweet can follow. Watch your speed on the river road, as cameras are common in the villages.
Early morning is quiet on the water, and in autumn, the mist rises off the river and the vineyard leaves turn red and gold.