Bonaventure sits on the southern shore of the Gaspé Peninsula, on the Baie des Chaleurs, the Bay of Heat, whose waters are among the warmest in the Gulf of St Lawrence, and its sheltered beaches are popular for swimming in summer. The town was founded in 1760 by Acadian refugees, who had fled the British deportation of their people and found shelter in this quiet bay. The Musée acadien du Québec, in the town, tells the story with objects, documents and a gentle, human touch. The Acadian flag, a French tricolour with a yellow star, flies from many houses.
The Bonaventure River, a clear, fast river known for salmon fishing, runs through the town to the sea, and it is a favourite for canoeists and anglers. The surrounding hills are covered in spruce and fir, and fields run down to the shore, with fishing boats and old wharves. The bay stretches away to the south, and on a clear day you can see the New Brunswick coast across the water.
Route 132, the road that circles the Gaspé Peninsula, passes through Bonaventure and is a classic coastal ride, with sea views, villages, red-roofed churches and long, easy bends. The surface is generally good, though frost heaves can make some stretches bumpy. The ride from Gaspé to Bonaventure, passing Percé and its great rock, is spectacular, and the quiet end at Bonaventure is a gentle reward. The traffic is light outside July and August.
Bonaventure has about two and a half thousand people, with a fuel station, a supermarket, a handful of restaurants and several places to stay. Seafood is excellent, with fresh lobster, scallops and smoked salmon on offer, and a plate of fish and chips beside the water is hard to beat. The weather can be foggy and cool, even in summer, and the evenings are chilly, so bring a warm layer. Take time to walk on the beach and watch the sun go down over the bay.