In the forests of Hälsingland, in central Sweden, you find farms that look as though they belong in a fairy tale. Prosperous farmers of the nineteenth century, who made their money from flax and timber, built large, many-roomed farmhouses and decorated their best rooms with paintings, wallpaper and carved details, often in rich reds, blues and golds. Several of these farms, the Hälsingegårdar, were listed by UNESCO in 2012, and others are still in private hands and used as homes. The place named on our list lies in the countryside near Ljusdal, in this farming country.
What is surprising is the size. The farms have separate buildings for dwelling, storage, stables and festivities, arranged around a courtyard, and the best room, the festive hall, was kept for weddings and celebrations. The painted decoration borrows from town fashions and biblical scenes, and was often done by travelling artists. Flax, the crop that paid for all this, produced linen that was sold across Europe, and the wealth it brought is visible in the houses.
For a rider the area is good, calm and scenic. The roads run along the Ljusnan river and across low, forested hills, with smooth surfaces, gentle bends and long views over lakes and fields. Traffic is light, and the main risk is wildlife, especially moose, which cross at dusk and dawn and can be lethal to a rider. Reduce your speed in the evening and watch the verges. June to August are the best months, with long light nights, while winter brings snow and ice and is not suitable for most riders.
Ljusdal, sixteen kilometres away, is a town of several thousand with fuel stations, supermarkets and cafes. A fika, a coffee and cinnamon bun, is a ritual you should try, and Swedish rules on open access mean you can usually walk through the forest and pick berries and mushrooms with respect. Fill the tank in Ljusdal before heading deeper into the countryside, because villages are small and distances long.