Bomdila is a hill town strung along a ridge in the far west of Arunachal Pradesh, at about 2,400 metres, and it is the traditional overnight stop on the long road to Tawang. The town is home to the Monpa people, who follow Tibetan Buddhism and have lived in these valleys for centuries, and you see it in the prayer flags, the prayer wheels and the monastery that sits above the main bazaar. The hills around are covered in orchards, and apples and kiwis are among the local products, sold at roadside stalls in the right season.
The ride to Bomdila from the plains of Assam is half the story. After crossing the Brahmaputra basin and entering Arunachal at Bhalukpong, the road climbs for hours through subtropical forest, with orchids, ferns and bamboo giving way to rhododendron and pine as you gain height. Landslides are a fact of life here, particularly in the monsoon, and the surface can be broken or temporarily gone in places. Border Roads Organisation crews are constantly at work. Check conditions before you set off, and be ready to stop and wait if the road is blocked.
For travel in Arunachal, an Inner Line Permit is required for Indian visitors and a protected area permit for foreigners, and you should arrange them in advance. Checkpoints along the road inspect papers, so keep copies. In the town itself, the main attractions are the monastery, which looks out over the valley, and the quiet streets where the evening mist comes in from the hills. Small guesthouses and hotels line the main road, and there are simple restaurants serving momos, thukpa and rice dishes. Local rice beer and butter tea are on offer if you are curious.
Bomdila has petrol pumps, which is important because the next reliable supply is not until you reach Tawang beyond the Sela Pass, and the road between is long. Fill up here, and check your tyres and brakes before climbing into the high country. The altitude and cold increase quickly, and night temperatures can be near freezing even outside winter, so bring a warm layer.
The morning view from the ridge, when the cloud clears to show the snow peaks to the north, is the reward for the long climb. If it is clear, enjoy it, because the weather often closes in by midday.