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Bodensee

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Büsingen am Hochrhein is one of Europe's oddities: a German village entirely surrounded by Switzerland, with the Rhine and Swiss fields on every side, and a population of around fourteen hundred. It has its own car plates, uses both euros and Swiss francs in shops, and is part of the Swiss customs area, though it belongs to Germany. Gailingen, next door, has a rich history as the home of the largest Jewish community in Baden, and its old synagogue still stands as a reminder.

The Rhine here is wide and slow, and the landscape is a mix of orchards, vineyards and low hills. To the north, the cone-shaped volcanic hills of the Hegau poke up from the plain, with the ruined fortress on the Hohentwiel mountain dominating the view, and further east lies the Bodensee, the Lake Constance of English maps, shared between Germany, Austria and Switzerland and a major destination for holidaymakers. Stein am Rhein, a few kilometres west on the Swiss side, is a medieval town of painted houses where the river leaves the lake, and it is often called the prettiest in the country.

Riding here is relaxed. The roads pass through farmland and low forest in gentle curves, and the biggest hazard is slow tractor traffic in summer and early autumn. Border crossings between Germany and Switzerland are usually quick, but you should carry a passport or ID card, and check any rules on vehicle documents. In the Hegau, there are good twisty roads with views of the volcanic cones, and a ride through the Randen hills, a forested limestone range to the south, is a nice change.

The Bodensee itself has a gentle climate, which allows apples, pears and even wine to be grown on its shores. Ferries cross from Konstanz to Meersburg, and the island of Mainau, famous for its flower gardens, is a short ride away. In early morning, mist rises from the water, and the light is soft and golden.

Fuel is easy in nearby Singen and Stein am Rhein, and cafes are plentiful. Germany is typically cheaper than Switzerland for fuel and food, so if you are crossing, it makes sense to top up on the German side.

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