Bobbio is a small town, with fewer than three thousand people, but it sits at the centre of a story that stretches back more than a thousand years. In 614 the Irish monk Columbanus founded an abbey here, in the valley of the Trebbia river, and the monastery became one of the great centres of learning in early medieval Europe, with a library said to have held hundreds of manuscripts. The abbey of San Colombano still stands, and the crypt and cloister are worth a visit. The town's stone lanes, arcades and the Ponte Gobbo, a crooked medieval bridge with irregular arches that crosses the river, have the look of a place that has hardly changed.
The Trebbia itself is one of the loveliest rivers in northern Italy, with clear water running over pale pebbles and pools of green. It also has a place in classical history, because Hannibal defeated a Roman army on its banks in 218 BC. In summer, locals and visitors swim and sunbathe on its gravel bars, and the surrounding hills are covered in oak, chestnut and pine.
The road along the valley is a joy. It follows the river in long, flowing curves, with the rock walls close on one side and the water on the other. The surface is mostly good, though the edges can be rough and gravel sometimes collects on bends. Traffic is light, although summer weekends bring cyclists and motorcyclists. On a warm evening the light on the water and the soft sound of the river make it easy to slow down and enjoy the ride.
Food is a draw. Piacenza province is known for pasta such as pisarei e fasò, small dumplings in a bean and tomato sauce, as well as cured meats such as coppa, salame and pancetta. Many trattorie in Bobbio serve these, and closing times are strict, so a late lunch can be hard to find. Bakeries and cafés in the town centre are good for a quick bite.
Fuel is available in Bobbio, but with only a few stations, it is worth topping up before heading deeper into the valley. Larger towns lie farther away. Park the bike near the centre and walk into the old town. The streets are narrow and the cobbles are uneven, so wear shoes you can walk in.